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Tuesday, 25 October 2016

Sewing A Blouse With A Bias Bow Collar

My mom had some fabric in the stash that she had purchased ages ago and never turned into anything useful. I decided it was time to do something with it and set about cutting a blouse for her that had a very feminine bow collar, cut on the bias. I show you how to make this top in today's blog, taking photos every step of the way to make it easier to follow.

This is the pattern I decided to work from. As the days were turning warmer with the approach of Summer, I decided to shorten the sleeves. This made a lot of sense as the fabric was also very lightweight and cool.

The first step is to attach the yoke to the back of the blouse.

Pin the pieces with right sides facing. Make sure to pin the pleats in the right place.

A close-up view of the pinned pleats.

Sew at 1,5 cm seam allowance.

We will now be attaching the front facing to the front. You should iron stiffening onto the facing before attaching it.

Pin with right sides facing.

Sew with seam allowance 1,5 cm.

Fold the facings in and pin in place.

Viewed from the back after being folded in.

Sew directly on top of the first sewing line.

Pin the front to the yoke with right sides facing.

Be sure to pin the pleats in the right place.

Sew at 1,5 cm seam allowance. Repeat for the other front facing.

Pin the bow/collar at center back with right sides facing.

Sew at seam allowance 1,5 cm.

Pin the collar to the neck, lining up centers back.

Pin all the way to the button facing.

Mark this spot clearly. When sewing the bow tube, you should not sew any further than this mark.

Mark this spot on both sides and unpin the bow from the neck line. Fold the bow in half and pin in place.

Pin all the way to the ends, leaving only the space in the middle unpinned where the collar/bow is attached to the neck.

Sew both sides at seam allowance 1,5 cm.

Trim the points to get sharp ends once turned right side out.

Turn the bow right side out and iron flat.

Tuck the ends of the button facing in, pin in place.

Top-stitch neatly.

Pin the collar/bow to the neck with right sides facing. Pin only one side of the collar to the neck.

Sew at 1,5 cm seam allowance.

Fold the loose end in and pin in place.

Sew the collar by hand to create a neat finish.

Mark the back of the sleeve with a pin, to make sure you do not attach the wrong side of the sleeve to the front or back. (I turned this blouse into a short-sleeved one to accommodate the season).

The double triangles on the pattern always mark the back on the pattern. Single triangles mark the front.

Set your machine to tack and tack the top of the sleeve.

Pin the sleeve to the armhole.

Sew at 1,5 cm. Do this for the other sleeve as well.

Pin from the sleeve all the way down the side to the waist with right sides facing.

Sew at 1,5 cm seam allowance. Repeat for the other side.

Pin the hem of the blouse and sew.

Pin the hem of the sleeves.

Hem the sleeves.

The next step is to clearly and accurately mark the places for the buttonholes.

Set your machine to the required settings.

Now sew your buttonholes.

Open the buttonholes with a quick unpick tool or small sharp-nosed scissors.

Use the buttonholes as guides to determine where the buttons should go.

Drop the feeder of your machine so it won't feed the cloth. Now set your machine to zigzag and determine the width of the holes in the button to set the stitch width to match it.

Since your feeder has been dropped, the machine will make the zigzag stitch in a stagnant position, allowing you to easily sew the buttons on with the machine.

Your blouse should now be ready to wash, iron and wear. I added some very small shoulder cushions as my pattern dates from the 80's and was obviously intended to have these to help shape the blouse. You can let the bow hang loose ...

... or you can tie it into a loose bow.

Marietjie Uys (Miekie) is a published author. You can buy the books here:
You can purchase Designs By Miekie 1 here.
Jy kan Kom Ons Teken en Verf Tuinstories hier koop.
Jy kan Kom Ons Kleur Tuinstories In hier koop.
Jy kan Tuinstories hier koop.
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