Once you have determined the size of the boards you are going to work on, you have to prepare the surface with universal undercoat before doing anything else. This will give the undercoat enough time to dry.
As a matter of fact, it is best to allow it to dry for 24 hours before painting over it. Let me show you how to determine the size of the board you will work on.
These are the off-cuts from the pants that my mom handed me. She had seen what I had done with some jeans in other projects and fully expected to see similar results here.
This was done for a girl's room from a pair of old jeans.
This was done for a junior artist's studio from yet another pair of old jeans.
Laying the parts out on the pre-cut boards I had available, it was clear that they would not sensibly fit on one board and that I would have to use two. I have to say that these boards are substantially smaller than the other two that I had worked on. Laying your fabric pieces out on a flat surface, you will be able to take the required measurements for your own board(s). Have them cut to size at your local supplier. I also have mine edged in the process.
Spreading the pieces out over two boards made a whole lot more sense. I now cut the waistband in two as well.
It was time to start testing fabric to match my original. I liked this fabric, but found it too boring for a little boy's room.
This fun fireman-themed fabric would do the trick, even though it does not seem an obvious match.
I cut fabric blocks to insert with the original pieces.
I start on the front of the waist band and cut the inserted fabric in half so that the waistband can still open at the button.
Attach the insert to the zipper flap with pins.
Sew the zipper flap to the inserted fabric.
Pin the waistband to the fabric.
Sew the waistband to the fabric. Trim the two pieces to match in length and width.
Pin the remaining side of the waistband to the fabric and sew.
Attach the zipper flap to the fabric.
Sew the zipper flap to the fabric.
Pin the zipper flap onto the fabric as it will only be a false zipper opening.
Top stitch all the necessary parts.
Trim the pieces to fit each other, as well as the other half of the waistband.
I will now work on this pocket.
I basically only need to zigzag some of the edges, and redo some of the top-stitching.
Yet another piece completed.
This pocket received the same treatment. I also needed to add a button to the false pocket flap.
The sewing for the first panel is completed.
I needed to redo the top-stitching on parts of the back waistband.
I then pinned the fabric to the waistband and sewed it on.
I then redid the top-stitching on this seam as well.
This pocket flap needed to have the top-stitching redone.
I then created a pocket to match the pocket flap, by folding a piece of fabric in half and sewing all around the edges, leaving only a small gap to turn it right side out.
Trim the corners for a neat fold.
Turn the pocket the right way out.
The remaining pieces were in tact and I did not work on these, meaning that all of the sewing was now done
Ironing is ESSENTIAL for a neat finish on the project. Not only do we sew the freshly sewn seams, and the fabric, but most importantly, we fold over the edges to create a sharp and clean edge, before ironing these edges flat.
Here you can see how much tidier the pieces appear after they have been ironed.
By this time my undercoat is dry and I paint the boards Phthalo Blue, using Dala Acrylic paint. You can also use Chalk Paint, or even Craft Paint with equal success.
You will need a substantial amount of upholstery pins, as well as tiny nails.
Hammer the upholstery pins to the corners, both for functionality as well as decorative purposes.
Space the small nails evenly all around the edges and hammer the pocket securely to the board. Adding enough nails will mean that the pockets will be able to withstand rough handling and heavy objects.
Do this with all of the pieces. Here is my completed top board.
Here is the completed bottom board.
Mark a spot roughly 10 cm in from the edges of the board on both sides.
Screw closed hooks into these marks. The bottom board only gets two hooks at the top. The top board gets two hooks both at the top and the bottom.
I did not like the empty space in the middle of the top board. I found a picture of a fire engine to fit in this space. You may also try your hand at painting a picture.
I cut the picture out.
I then use Dala Acrylic Gel Medium and paint a thick layer where I want the fire engine to go.
Lay the fire engine in place and rub out all air bubbles. Coat with another layer of the acrylic gel medium.
Cut 2 lengths of chain, measuring 15 cm each. Cut a third length to measure 60 cm.
Use your pliers to open the hook and slide the chain. Close the hook with the pliers.
Your storage boards are ready to be hung! I hooked it over my easel to show you what it looked like when hanging.
This is what the finished product looks like.
I packed some of the recipients favourite tools.
At the top, I had all of the workman's tools.
At the bottom, I had his art supplies. Nifty, isn't it?
Marietjie Uys (Miekie) is a published author. You can buy the books here:Jy kan Kom Ons Teken en Verf Tuinstories hier koop.
You can purchase Designs By Miekie 1 here.
You can purchase Designs By Miekie 1 here.
Jy kan Kom Ons Kleur Tuinstories In hier koop.
Jy kan Tuinstories hier koop.
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Remember to keep nurturing your TALENT for making PRETTY things.
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