Making a Continental Pillow Case

We have been hard at work making two quilted patchwork comforters with matching pillows for a set of twins. Today I will show you how to make a continental pillowcase add a bit of flair to the beds. I use a fabric that breaks the monotony of the pink, though still blending in. I will not quilt or patch this pillowcase not wanting to let the technique overwhelm the room. The design on the fabric is cute enough to stand on its own and I embrace this fact.

Measure the fabric to 78 cm in width. A continental pillowcase is 75 cm x 75 cm.

The length of the pillowcase must be doubled (2 x 75 cm) and another 20 cm added for the flap that folds back. It will also need extra length for broader seams (2 x 3 cm). Cut the length to 176 cm.

My overlocker is in need of repair and I will give the pillowcase rolled seams as a result. Feel free to use your overlocker here. You can also zigzag. Do this for both the long sides of the pillowcase.

The two short sides of the pillowcase each get 'n double hem of 1,5 cm.

Lay the seamed fabric on a table. Fold the bottom of the pillowcase back 75 cm, right sides facing. Pin it in place.

Turn the pillowcase over and fold the flap back and pin in place.

Sew the side seams closed and iron everything flat.

Turn the pillowcase right side out and pull it over a pillow.

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Remember to keep nurturing your TALENT for making PRETTY things.
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Making a Patchwork Comforter and Pillowcase Part 4

It is time we finished the quilted patchwork comforter and pillow that we started with and have been doing over three preceding blogs. In this last of the blogs we add the finishing touches to both the pillow and the comforter. This means that we add the backing fabric and enclose everything neatly.
Here are the links to all of the blogs in the series:
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4

Lay the quilted comforter flat on the floor (or on a table if you have one that is big enough). Lay the backing fabric on top of the comforter and cut to size.

Lay the quilted pillows on a table and cut the backing fabric for the pillow to size. (Remember that I am making a set of two and that is why you see two pillows in my photo).

I start with the pillows since these smaller pieces will prepare me better for working with the bigger ones. Lay the backing fabric and the pillow quilts right sides facing on top of each other. Pin three sides (2 long and 1 short).

Sew all along the three sides, staying right next to the batting. I learn that the heavy fabric threatens to pull out from under the needle. This means I need to reorganize my work space before I start with the bigger comforters.

Turn the pillows right side out when done.

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Lay the backing fabric and the quilt for the comforters right sides facing on top of each other. The fabric is too heave to hope to pin all three sides at once. I pin only one of the long sides.

I clear my work space of any clutter so that I have maximum table to lay the weight of the comforter on.

I again sew as close as possible to the batting. I recommend you set your machine to stop with its needle in the down position (if possible). This will help to keep the fabric in check while sewing.

I added this photo so you can see what it looks like when you  are sewing so much fabric. You will now understand why it was necessary to cleat the table before I started.

Next, I pin one of the short sides.

Again, I sew as close to the batting as possible.

Lastly, I pin the leftover long side. Make sure that the backing fabric and the quilt lie flat before you start pinning.

This last time I once more sew as close to the batting as possible.

I allowed myself extra fabric and I now need to trim that away all around.

Turn the comforter inside out.

The last short side is still open. I fold the seam in and pin it.

I prefer sewing this side by hand as it is much neater.

It is time to add the stuffing to the pillows. Each pillow will take about a bag and a half of stuffing.

In order to avoid a mess, open the bag with the stuffing and push it into the pillow.

Push the stuffing out of the plastic bag into the pillow.

Carefully pull the plastic bag out and recycle it.

Fold the seams in and pin properly.

Sew the seam by hand to ensure a neat finish.

The comforter and pillow completed.

For more crafty ideas and great products, visit APrettyTalent.com.
Remember to keep nurturing your TALENT for making PRETTY things.
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Chalk Paint & Decoupage Combo Warmer Mats

I love the mat finish that you get from chalk paint. It makes a lovely background for a variety of products and is brilliant for use on furniture. Today I decorate a set of 4 warmers for the table or sideboard to put the warm pots on. I again paint a distressed background with chalk paint before I make my own flowers to decoupage onto the background. This set is available from APrettyTalent.com under Miekie Crafts. Click here to navigate there.

These are the four surfaces I will be working on today. I have laid the rulers in place to make it easy to see the dimensions.

I am going to prepare the backs of the warmer mats first. I will use a flat brush and Sap Green Acrylic Paint to paint the backs (undersides).

Leave the under sides to dry before continuing on top.

I will paint the top with the same flat brush and  VanDaniQue Tuscany Chalk Paint.

Leave this first initial layer to dry completely before you continue.

I will now paint a second layer of chalk paint. This time I use English Rose.

Leave this layer to dry.

I now use a number 2 round brush and Dark Pewter to paint the sides of the warmer mats.

Once the top side is dry, I turn the warmer mats over once more to sign my name at the bottom in Dark Pewter with a Rigger/Liner brush.

It is time to distress the paint. I will use 200 sanding paper.

Sand the mat down until you are satisfied with the level of distressing achieved.

I always prefer to seal my background once I am satisfied with it. I now add a layer of varnish. The varnish is also water-soluble and will dry quickly.

Let the varnish dry completely.

I now select a 12" x 12" sheet of printed paper to punch flowers from. I will not cut out the flowers. Instead, I choose to make my own flowers using a series of punshes I have.

I test the layout of the punched out designs before I fix them with decoupage.

This time I will use Modge Podge for the decoupagem, but you can use Acrylic Gel Medium with equal success.

Paint a generous layer of Modge Podge on the surface.

Lay the punshed out designs on the wet Modge Podge and rub out any trapped bubbles.

Paint a second layer of Modge Podge generously over the designs and the warmer mats. Allow it to dry completely.

I now use a very fine sanding block to distress the decoupaged flowers with.

I wil use Tim Holtz Destress Ink in Walnut Stain to distress the picture even further.

I make sure that the sides are properly inked as this is where real distress will be most visible.

I then very gently smear the ink pad over the surface of the warmer mat. I did the same thing on the back as well for uniformity sake.

The end result has yesteryear's charm.

This set is available from APrettyTalent.com under Miekie Crafts. Click here to navigate there.
For more crafty ideas and great products, visit APrettyTalent.com.
Remember to keep nurturing your TALENT for making PRETTY things.
You can subscribe to this blog and receive regular updates by email by simply registering your email address at the top of the current blog.